I did not plan on dining at Quay, undoubtedly one of the top restaurants in Sydney. Tasting menu lunch at Tetsuya’s was to be my one splurge of the trip and I was happy to explore the less formal establishments of Sydney dining scene. Located on the third floor of Oversea Passenger Terminal, Quay is as famous for its food as its spectacular view of the harbour. On days without any mega cruise ship docked at the harbour, you cannot beat a backdrop featuring the iconic Sydney Opera House while you wine and dine.
Lesser restaurants would coast on this enviable feature for sure. I heard of too many disappointing dining experiences at Restaurant With A View. However, thanks to non-stop nudging from a friend whose palate I trust, I emailed the restaurant for a lunch reservation with complete flexibility on date. It is well-known that Quay can be fully booked weeks in advance. I was lucky that a late Thursday lunch at the famed restaurant was available.
Although tasting menu was on offer, I opted for a lighter four-course lunch menu instead. My friend said I must try the signature snow egg dessert and I could order it without going through the whole tasting menu experience. After more than a week away from home, I missed home cook food dearly and working through multiple courses of meticulously constructed dishes did not sound so appealing anymore.
I may sound grumpy but it really was not the case at all. How could I be when the impossibly blue Sydney Harbour was right in front of my eyes? I was actually in a celebratory mood and ordered a Lychee Mojito. A bit out of character for me but the tall refreshing drink was absolutely delicious with muddled lime, mint, and lychee. The fruity sweetness masked the potent rum in the drink. Along with a choice of white and sesame sourdough, the waiter brought forth a little dish of amuse bouche. Juicy pomelo pulp popped in my mouth and the richness of soured cream tamed the citrus notes.
My first course of Raw Smoked Blackmore Wagyu, Fresh Dory Roe, Horseradish Juice, Soured Cream, Milk Skin soon arrived. Beef tartare is a personal favourite so of course I did not pass on the chance to try a similarly raw beef appetizer using luxurious wagyu. The chopped pieces of beef had a subtle smoke flavour and a bit of kick from horseradish. However, it was the savoury roe and the delicately crisp milk skin that made the whole dish memorable. I secretly thanked my friend for his relentless persuasion.
Next came the Squad and Abalone, Rare Cultivated Greens, Fresh Jersey Milk Curd, Anchovy Wakame Broth. Still firmly in the realm of appetizer and my appetite really woke up for good at this point. The anchovy wakame broth was intensely flavoured and infused the cultivated greens with savouriness. The greens were not just pretty to look at. Their delicateness was integral to the enjoyment of this dish. The thin slices of abalone and squad shared similar toothsome texture yet such opposite taste. I tried all different combinations with each spoonful. Just the squab, just the abalone, or both at the same time. With broth or without. With greens or without. They were all excellent.
The main course soon arrived. Milk Fed Suffolk Lamb Slow Braised in Salted Butter, Green Lentils, Capers, Garlic Scapes, Fennel, Young Onions, Orach with a side salad of dressed mesclun. The gamey taste of lamb was enhanced by the richness of butter braise. Under normal circumstances, I would love it. Unfortunately, the mojito got to me at this point and I spent five minutes just pushing my food around to wait for the uncomfortable reaction to pass. When I finally felt well enough to take a bite, the lamb got cold and everything on the dish tasted too rich. Instead of being fork tender, I just wished for less mushiness with the meat. The tangy side salad and fried capers were the best part. Alas, I left most of the lamb on the plate, something I had never done at a fine dining restaurant before.
Jackfruit Snow Egg no doubt took the top spot of the meal. It was a dessert featured on MasterChef Australia and a signature dish of Quay. Sphere of meringue was encrusted in the thinnest layer of crackly caramel and dusted with confectioner’s sugar. It sat on a bed of jackfruit granita and creamy jackfruit mousse. I gently tapped and cracked the egg open with a spoon and a bright yellow yolk of jackfruit ice cream peeked out from within. It was whimsical but reminded me of the classic French dessert ile flottant. The similarities were all there with the poached meringue, custard, and caramel. Quay’s snow egg transformed from classic to contemporary with special touches of tropical fruit, cold granita, and fun presentation.
My lunch at Quay concluded with a cup of tall black and two chocolate truffles. It was a memorable experience and I was certainly glad that I listened to my friend. If I could change one thing, I would skip the mojito and choose one of its many non-alcoholic cocktails instead. Live and learn, right? Live and learn.
